Thursday, November 18, 2010
MoTeCH Video
As the MoTeCH project continues to take hold, we're finally able to get some good photos and film footage about the work. This most recent video was shot in the Upper East Region, where we piloted our work & where the kids & I visited. Ted Turner & a delegation from the United Nations Foundation recently visited the project in Ghana and were shown this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdTYnDOyOOw
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Changed Forever
As I sit in our new little home on Vashon on a cool, gray fall morning, I am struck by how much hot, steamy, far-away Ghana is so close to my heart. For a few more days, I am still managing the work there, and have had one trip back to Ghana since moving to the US and another coming up in a couple of weeks. It's been a strange time of keeping one foot in Ghana and another here, getting the kids into school, soccer, playdates and all that fall entails for a 7 and 11 year old. There's hardly a day that goes by when the kids and I don't somehow end up talking about Ghana. The country, the land and its people have left an indelible mark on each of our hearts.
Sophie has been able to express her time in Ghana through her stunning photos. She displayed some of her photos during an art show on the island in August. She sold several and her photos were able to tell stories that no words can describe. During the opening night, I watched as Sophie, who just started middle school, walked every person around the gallery, describing each photo, where it was taken and who it was of. In general, Ghana seems to have helped her turn into a poised, confident, worldly and compassionate human being. So beautiful. The other night, after reading the kids a story about a woman whose uncle had told her she must do something beautiful in the world, I asked Sophie what beautiful thing she wanted to do. Her response: "take photos of poverty so I can show people and they will understand". Wow.
Xavier talks about Ghana all the time and is begging to go back. Other than gaining some serious soccer moves, he seems to be practically "color blind". People are people and he has this amazing way of just seeing straight into the heart of a person, regardless of what they look like or where they came from. When I asked him what he missed most about Ghana, his immediate response was "The people. I wish they could all live here, the way we do, but be Ghanaians". It's the purity of heart and soul that he so connected with and can see how much harder that is to find in everyday interactions in the "developed" world.
As for me, I'm still very much processing it all. I knew from my Peace Corps days in Mali that Africa is in my heart and it's a place that I feel pulled to. My job was enormously challenging and often felt like triaging the various crises was the best I could do in any given day. As hard as it was, I learned a lot. I learned that I'm strong. Really strong. I learned that I love soccer, but only when it's tied to hope, God, love and country. I learned that racism runs deep and in unexpected ways and that history plays itself out over and over and over again in very fascinating ways. I learned that the issues we face as humans are a dance of enormous complexity and stunning simplicity. I learned that my children are wonderfully, amazingly resilient, compassionate and aware of the world on many levels.
So, life continues. Right now, it's filled with cool days, soccer games and practice nearly every day, Sophie's middle school locker dramas and Xavier's endless playdates with all his old friends. Despite the routine we are starting to get back into, we are all profoundly different than we were the last time we experienced fall and we feel so very blessed for the ways in which Ghana has changed us forever........
Sophie has been able to express her time in Ghana through her stunning photos. She displayed some of her photos during an art show on the island in August. She sold several and her photos were able to tell stories that no words can describe. During the opening night, I watched as Sophie, who just started middle school, walked every person around the gallery, describing each photo, where it was taken and who it was of. In general, Ghana seems to have helped her turn into a poised, confident, worldly and compassionate human being. So beautiful. The other night, after reading the kids a story about a woman whose uncle had told her she must do something beautiful in the world, I asked Sophie what beautiful thing she wanted to do. Her response: "take photos of poverty so I can show people and they will understand". Wow.
Xavier talks about Ghana all the time and is begging to go back. Other than gaining some serious soccer moves, he seems to be practically "color blind". People are people and he has this amazing way of just seeing straight into the heart of a person, regardless of what they look like or where they came from. When I asked him what he missed most about Ghana, his immediate response was "The people. I wish they could all live here, the way we do, but be Ghanaians". It's the purity of heart and soul that he so connected with and can see how much harder that is to find in everyday interactions in the "developed" world.
As for me, I'm still very much processing it all. I knew from my Peace Corps days in Mali that Africa is in my heart and it's a place that I feel pulled to. My job was enormously challenging and often felt like triaging the various crises was the best I could do in any given day. As hard as it was, I learned a lot. I learned that I'm strong. Really strong. I learned that I love soccer, but only when it's tied to hope, God, love and country. I learned that racism runs deep and in unexpected ways and that history plays itself out over and over and over again in very fascinating ways. I learned that the issues we face as humans are a dance of enormous complexity and stunning simplicity. I learned that my children are wonderfully, amazingly resilient, compassionate and aware of the world on many levels.
So, life continues. Right now, it's filled with cool days, soccer games and practice nearly every day, Sophie's middle school locker dramas and Xavier's endless playdates with all his old friends. Despite the routine we are starting to get back into, we are all profoundly different than we were the last time we experienced fall and we feel so very blessed for the ways in which Ghana has changed us forever........
Thursday, August 5, 2010
You Know You're in America When......
I'm back to the good ol' US of A. Landed, had about 48 hours to start unpacking my house, unpack from Ghana and get packed for a much needed family vacation to Hawaii. The Hawaii trip was fantastic, but it took me several days to recover from the jet lag and flat out fatigue. I'm back on lovely Vashon, continuing to get settled and balance managing a project that is in a time zone 7 hours ahead of me. I keep having little bouts of culture shock. Here are the things that have most stood out as uniquely American:
1) Dogs have playdates
2) I can call a number 24/7 for customer service for just about anything - and the attendants apologize "for the wait" when I've been on hold for more than a minute
3) Food portions for 1 person are big enough to feed a whole family in Ghana
4) When I order food in a restaurant, there's a really good chance I'll get what I ordered, how I ordered it and in a timely manner
5) Open water swimming is much, much colder
6) Traffic laws are mostly adhered to
7) I don't have anyone to cook, do my laundry and take care of the yard - then again, doing all of those things is a LOT more efficient here
8) Debit and credit cards are used for everything - on the airplane, they don't even accept cash
9) Electricity and water is reliable and consistent
10) Everything moves really, really fast and I'm still not quite up to speed :)
1) Dogs have playdates
2) I can call a number 24/7 for customer service for just about anything - and the attendants apologize "for the wait" when I've been on hold for more than a minute
3) Food portions for 1 person are big enough to feed a whole family in Ghana
4) When I order food in a restaurant, there's a really good chance I'll get what I ordered, how I ordered it and in a timely manner
5) Open water swimming is much, much colder
6) Traffic laws are mostly adhered to
7) I don't have anyone to cook, do my laundry and take care of the yard - then again, doing all of those things is a LOT more efficient here
8) Debit and credit cards are used for everything - on the airplane, they don't even accept cash
9) Electricity and water is reliable and consistent
10) Everything moves really, really fast and I'm still not quite up to speed :)
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
The Transformation
As I get ready to head to the airport in an hour, it occurs to me that each time I travel from the developing world to the developed world and vice versa, there's a certain transformation that takes place.
Now that I'm moving back to the US (although my next trip to Ghana is in just a month), the transformation feels more pronounced. A week or so ago, I wore my jeans - just to get used to them again. Today, I picked out my travel clothes - layers that will get me through the not-air-conditioned airport chaos (which is normally chaotic, but traveling with 2 dogs and 2 very hefty suitcases will no doubt be a whole other layer of chaos), the over-air-conditioned plane and a stopover in Amsterdam where I can change into my "developed world" clothes. I have my "Ghana wallet" in my purse - one made of recycled water sachets and filled with cedis, my Ghanaian driver's license and very, very worn out and have my "Europe/US wallet" in my carry-on - filled with dollars, euros, my US driver's license and nice, smooth leather in a hip green color. The puppies who spend their days here rolling around in the rainy season mud in my garden have both been bathed and groomed and I keep telling Zig Zag how exciting it is for a little dog from Ghana to immigrate to the US!
Then, there's the mind shift. I'm getting myself prepared for a faster-than-the-speed-of-light world filled with automation. Reviewing in my head how to use a debit card and use the self check-out at the grocery store. Praying I'll remember that turning in front of people and agressively fighting for your spot in traffic is a style frowned upon on Vashon.
I'm sure it will all be fine, but I suspect the pupies and I will be a bit dumbstruck for a few days, so if you see us with eyes glazed over, moving at a much slower pace than the world around us, please be patient :)
Now that I'm moving back to the US (although my next trip to Ghana is in just a month), the transformation feels more pronounced. A week or so ago, I wore my jeans - just to get used to them again. Today, I picked out my travel clothes - layers that will get me through the not-air-conditioned airport chaos (which is normally chaotic, but traveling with 2 dogs and 2 very hefty suitcases will no doubt be a whole other layer of chaos), the over-air-conditioned plane and a stopover in Amsterdam where I can change into my "developed world" clothes. I have my "Ghana wallet" in my purse - one made of recycled water sachets and filled with cedis, my Ghanaian driver's license and very, very worn out and have my "Europe/US wallet" in my carry-on - filled with dollars, euros, my US driver's license and nice, smooth leather in a hip green color. The puppies who spend their days here rolling around in the rainy season mud in my garden have both been bathed and groomed and I keep telling Zig Zag how exciting it is for a little dog from Ghana to immigrate to the US!
Then, there's the mind shift. I'm getting myself prepared for a faster-than-the-speed-of-light world filled with automation. Reviewing in my head how to use a debit card and use the self check-out at the grocery store. Praying I'll remember that turning in front of people and agressively fighting for your spot in traffic is a style frowned upon on Vashon.
I'm sure it will all be fine, but I suspect the pupies and I will be a bit dumbstruck for a few days, so if you see us with eyes glazed over, moving at a much slower pace than the world around us, please be patient :)
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
A Little Slice of Life
I've had a couple of quintessentially Ghana experiences lately and they're the type of things that define life in a developing country.
Vodafone is the main phone and internet provider here. Despite the fact that they are a major global corporation, they can't seem to get basic, reliable service in place in Ghana. For example, I don't receive a bill for my monthly internet service at my house. I have to remember when I paid it the prior month and get it paid the following month or, without warning, they shut off my internet. This happened last week while I was out of town. I went to the main Vodafone office to pay my bill and was told that I couldn't pay because the link was down and I should try another of their offices. I laughed at the fact that the internet company couldn't take my money to restore my internet service because the internet was down. I drove across town to another of their stores and tried to pay. Again, I was told the "link" was down. So, no payment therefore no internet (thankfully, I have a modem to use as backup).
Today, I needed to get confirmation from KLM that the dogs can fly with me next week. All morning, their phone lines were down - service provided by Vodafone, of course. So, I decided it would be best to just go to the KLM office and sort out the dog issue in person, rather than wait for the phone lines to come back up. I checked the internet (which was working) and found the location of the KLM office. I went there only to find an empty building. No signs, nothing. Someone on the street told me they had moved to an office tower near the airport. I drove back across town to one of the new, shiny office towers in Accra (there are many that are partially built, but few completed and inhabited). I got on the elevator and realized this is only the 2nd elevator I've been on in Accra. Once to the floor of he KLM offices, I was told this was their administrative offices and I should go to the airport to the ticketing office. The elevator felt......questionable to me on the way up, so I took the stairs down. I noticed on each floor a good-sized metal hammer with a sign "In Case of Fire Break Glass" next to it. I thought it was encouraging, as fire safety is not something you see often around here. I've seen smaller hammers and signs in the US, but usually the hammer and sign is next to a small glass box containing a fire alarm to be pulled in case of fire. There was no box - just a large hammer and a sign. I realized that the instructions meant to break the glass of the glass exit doors in the stairwell in case of fire!!!! I supposed you could hack the hell out of the glass door, hope you don't injure yourself with the broken glass and then head for a speedy exit in case of fire. I guess it's the next best thing if there is no alarm to pull to alert the fire department.
I then headed to the airport where the airline offices are. A guard directed me down the hall and to the left to get to the KLM office. I never found the office but did find an employee of another airline wandering around. He informed me that KLM had their own building outside and I should just go out and look that way (he points). So, I did that and finally found KLM's shiny new ticketing office. Complete with an orderly "take a number" system and friendly agents sitting behind functioning computers with nice flat screen monitors. But of course, the phone lines were still out! I guess development is one step at a time........
Vodafone is the main phone and internet provider here. Despite the fact that they are a major global corporation, they can't seem to get basic, reliable service in place in Ghana. For example, I don't receive a bill for my monthly internet service at my house. I have to remember when I paid it the prior month and get it paid the following month or, without warning, they shut off my internet. This happened last week while I was out of town. I went to the main Vodafone office to pay my bill and was told that I couldn't pay because the link was down and I should try another of their offices. I laughed at the fact that the internet company couldn't take my money to restore my internet service because the internet was down. I drove across town to another of their stores and tried to pay. Again, I was told the "link" was down. So, no payment therefore no internet (thankfully, I have a modem to use as backup).
Today, I needed to get confirmation from KLM that the dogs can fly with me next week. All morning, their phone lines were down - service provided by Vodafone, of course. So, I decided it would be best to just go to the KLM office and sort out the dog issue in person, rather than wait for the phone lines to come back up. I checked the internet (which was working) and found the location of the KLM office. I went there only to find an empty building. No signs, nothing. Someone on the street told me they had moved to an office tower near the airport. I drove back across town to one of the new, shiny office towers in Accra (there are many that are partially built, but few completed and inhabited). I got on the elevator and realized this is only the 2nd elevator I've been on in Accra. Once to the floor of he KLM offices, I was told this was their administrative offices and I should go to the airport to the ticketing office. The elevator felt......questionable to me on the way up, so I took the stairs down. I noticed on each floor a good-sized metal hammer with a sign "In Case of Fire Break Glass" next to it. I thought it was encouraging, as fire safety is not something you see often around here. I've seen smaller hammers and signs in the US, but usually the hammer and sign is next to a small glass box containing a fire alarm to be pulled in case of fire. There was no box - just a large hammer and a sign. I realized that the instructions meant to break the glass of the glass exit doors in the stairwell in case of fire!!!! I supposed you could hack the hell out of the glass door, hope you don't injure yourself with the broken glass and then head for a speedy exit in case of fire. I guess it's the next best thing if there is no alarm to pull to alert the fire department.
I then headed to the airport where the airline offices are. A guard directed me down the hall and to the left to get to the KLM office. I never found the office but did find an employee of another airline wandering around. He informed me that KLM had their own building outside and I should just go out and look that way (he points). So, I did that and finally found KLM's shiny new ticketing office. Complete with an orderly "take a number" system and friendly agents sitting behind functioning computers with nice flat screen monitors. But of course, the phone lines were still out! I guess development is one step at a time........
Friday, July 9, 2010
Under a Baobab Tree
What an amazing week at work - I just returned to Accra after spending the week in some of the most remote areas in Ghana. The MoTeCH team and I went around to rural health outreach clinics to sign up pregnant women and children under 5 for the MoTeCH service. By the end of the week, we had registered around 700 women and kids - all via inputting the basic personal and health data into a simple mobile phone. It was a lot of work, but also a lot of fun. The clinics are held anywhere the community gathers - most of the ones I attended were literally under the local baobab tree. The nurse would drive up on a motorcycle, benches would appear, a baby scale would be hung by one of the branches of the tree and the next thing you know, women and children are showing up from all over the village. Each baby has it's own "sack" to be weighed in. The babies are hung on the hook on the scale in the tree and their weight is charted in a health book the mom is responsible for. That's the only health record the kids have and by the time a child is 5 or so, those little books are in pretty shabby condition. Vaccinations, vitamin A, dewormers and basic health information was given out. There were a few newborns and this constituted their first "well baby" check since the first check at birth. Amazing.
I totally enjoyed being out in the villages, watching how the moms interact, how the toddlers kept themselves amused with dirt and a pair of flip-flops and how old men hung out under the tree, ready to help with whatever was needed. Some babies had "medicine" around their necks - little pouches of various concotions or skins that were the local, traditional medicine for one ailment or another. Kids peed wherever they needed to, moms sat around on benches waiting for the nurses to log the kids' information in their health book and get it back to them, nurses shamed mothers for the condition of the books, goats bleated and men plowed the fields nearby and generally it was just life....under the baobab tree. I just kept thinking how very different a child health clinic would look in the US - stressed moms who needed to get back to work, big strollers and well-packed diaper bags, toys and a sterile, confidential environment for receiving health care.
Despite missing the kids desperately, it was a really great week at work and reminded me of exactly why I am here.
A rural health clinic under the baobab tree
A baby being weighed
I totally enjoyed being out in the villages, watching how the moms interact, how the toddlers kept themselves amused with dirt and a pair of flip-flops and how old men hung out under the tree, ready to help with whatever was needed. Some babies had "medicine" around their necks - little pouches of various concotions or skins that were the local, traditional medicine for one ailment or another. Kids peed wherever they needed to, moms sat around on benches waiting for the nurses to log the kids' information in their health book and get it back to them, nurses shamed mothers for the condition of the books, goats bleated and men plowed the fields nearby and generally it was just life....under the baobab tree. I just kept thinking how very different a child health clinic would look in the US - stressed moms who needed to get back to work, big strollers and well-packed diaper bags, toys and a sterile, confidential environment for receiving health care.
Despite missing the kids desperately, it was a really great week at work and reminded me of exactly why I am here.
A rural health clinic under the baobab tree
A baby being weighedSaturday, July 3, 2010
It's "Finished"
When we order food in a restaurant, we often get the response "it's finished". When the electricity goes out, it's "finished". When anything is not available, completed or over, it is "finished". So, it seems fitting to say that on the day that Ghana lost a heartbreaking match with Uruguay in the World Cup quarter finals, I put the kids on a plane to the US - this phase of life in Ghana is "finished".
The last few days of good-byes were sweet. My favorite was visiting the family of Xavier's best friend, Atis. The kids all gathered together to pose for a photo (below) and Atis' little sister (a budding drama queen) declares that everyone must sing "the anthem". Given that their family is Swiss and Serb and has lived in both Rwanda and Ghana for most of the kids' lives, my kids are American and were living in Ghana for the past year, I was not sure which anthem would be sung. But, all the kids knew - and they sang us a rousing rendition of "God Bless My Homeland Ghana". It made tears come to my eyes and was one of the sweetest things I have ever witnessed!
The kids' last full day in Ghana consistied of a visit to Patience, our housekeeper's, village. It was one of the ones most affected by the floods of a few weeks ago. The kids and Colleen took a big bag of rice and lots of clothes to the village. Sophie was able to get some amazing shots of village life and the juxtaposition of the joy displayed on people's faces with the devastation of the floods.
It started pouring rain when we woke up to head to the airport yesterday. We arrived with ankle-deep water on the airport drive and I told the kids all of Ghana was crying because they were leaving. The rain stopped about the time their flight departed. Twenty-four hours after getting the kids to the airport in Accra, they have arrived safely in Seattle with Colleen. All went well, although it sounds like none of the three got any sleep to speak of. I am lying around moping with the puppies, missing the kids and all the amazing energy they brought to our world here in Ghana, remembering the countless adventures we shared in the past year, thinking of the profound ways every one of us has changed and feeling grateful knowing that there are so many people on Vashon that are happy they are back.
Yes, this phase of their lives is "finished" but the impact of it will no doubt last forever.........
Our Ghana Family (Sophie, Rosie, Japha, Patience, Xavier, Zig Zag, Kirsten)
The kids' last full day in Ghana consistied of a visit to Patience, our housekeeper's, village. It was one of the ones most affected by the floods of a few weeks ago. The kids and Colleen took a big bag of rice and lots of clothes to the village. Sophie was able to get some amazing shots of village life and the juxtaposition of the joy displayed on people's faces with the devastation of the floods.
It started pouring rain when we woke up to head to the airport yesterday. We arrived with ankle-deep water on the airport drive and I told the kids all of Ghana was crying because they were leaving. The rain stopped about the time their flight departed. Twenty-four hours after getting the kids to the airport in Accra, they have arrived safely in Seattle with Colleen. All went well, although it sounds like none of the three got any sleep to speak of. I am lying around moping with the puppies, missing the kids and all the amazing energy they brought to our world here in Ghana, remembering the countless adventures we shared in the past year, thinking of the profound ways every one of us has changed and feeling grateful knowing that there are so many people on Vashon that are happy they are back.
Yes, this phase of their lives is "finished" but the impact of it will no doubt last forever.........
Saturday, June 26, 2010
USA v. Ghana
Here we are, the kids' final days as residents of Ghana and the USA and Ghana are matched up in the World Cup. Who will we cheer for? It's an interesting metaphor for the feeling of being torn between the excitement of heading back to our true home and the sadness of leaving the little country that has captured our hearts in so many ways.
But, when it comes to football, the answer was immediately clear: GO GHANA. As I've writeen so many times before, football here isn't just a sport. It's a representation of a small country that achieved independence, is advancing democratically and economically and the powerful sense of hope and possibility that prevails here. When the Ghanaian footballers stand for their national anthem, they can often be seen praying, nearly weeping and generally in a sense of such reverence for their country and all it means to them. The fans are the same - while watching, it's not uncommon for someone to stand at half time and sing "God Bless our Homeland, Ghana". A goal can move people to tears. In the past few weeks, people everywhere have been spending their precious few cedis on a Ghanaian flag to drape across their car or a football jersey knock-off to wear proudly around town. Young women can be seen walking around in threes - one in red, another green, the last in yellow. The three making their own verion of the Ghanaian flag.
But, when it comes to football, the answer was immediately clear: GO GHANA. As I've writeen so many times before, football here isn't just a sport. It's a representation of a small country that achieved independence, is advancing democratically and economically and the powerful sense of hope and possibility that prevails here. When the Ghanaian footballers stand for their national anthem, they can often be seen praying, nearly weeping and generally in a sense of such reverence for their country and all it means to them. The fans are the same - while watching, it's not uncommon for someone to stand at half time and sing "God Bless our Homeland, Ghana". A goal can move people to tears. In the past few weeks, people everywhere have been spending their precious few cedis on a Ghanaian flag to drape across their car or a football jersey knock-off to wear proudly around town. Young women can be seen walking around in threes - one in red, another green, the last in yellow. The three making their own verion of the Ghanaian flag.
So, for all that Ghana and football represents, we will be cheering GO GHANA this evening as the Black Stars put their all into beating the odds once again......
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
100% Ghana
My dear friend, Colleen, arrived here on Thursday night. We are showing her Ghana - 100%. We woke her up early Friday morning to drive about 5 hours to Axim Beach on the western coast, near Cote d'Ivoire. The kids, pups, Colleen and I had a good (albeit not very relaxing - kids and dogs on a trip are fun, but NOT relaxing) time playing on the beach in between rain storms and watching World Cup matches. We got an early start back to Accra on Monday. The police seemed to be out in force for both directions of the drive - there were roadblocks frequently and I was pulled over a total of 6 times - mostly, it was harmless and I even had some fun bantering with the cops, but one stop took about half an hour of negotiating with a Commander on a power trip before he gave me back my license and let me go! Less than 45 miles outside of Accra, we found that the overpass had been flooded and the road was closed. I assessed the situation: 2 kids, 2 dogs, fairly remote location, 1 liter of water, a handful of nuts, about 4 hours until dark and cars rapidly parking every which way, with ours soon to be blocked in on the highway. We got back in the car, turned around and drove another hour back to a resort I knew of and decided to wait out the road closure there - in the safety of a beach front room, good food and an abundance of drinking water. After much mixed information the following morning, we finally got on the road to Accra and had a long, hot, traffic-filled drive back. I must say that all 6 of us (dogs included) did a great job - no barking (me or the dogs), no biting (the kids or the dogs) and general making the best of the situation all the way around. Colleen didn't even ask to be taken straight to the airport for the next flight home - that's a true friend :)
MoTeCH is in full swing right now, launching our pilot project in the Upper East and everyone working double time. The kids, Colleen and I are flying up there tomorrow for a durbar (community entry celebration) and for me to monitor the work and generally trouble shoot as the inevitable "launch issues" arise. The kids are hoping to show Colleen that the crocodiles really are friendly and I hope to get her out to a few rural health clinics (Colleen is a Physician's Assistant in the US) to get a slice of the "real" Africa. Then, the kids are back in Accra a few days before saying goodbye and heading back to the US with Colleen as chaperone. They will no doubt be totally worn out (as will I) by the time they board that flight.
Tonight is a big Ghana World Cup Game - they are the last real chance of an African team making it to the next round. Everyone here is rooting for them and it is sure to be an exciting evening all over Ghana! Another 100% Ghanaian experience for us all!
MoTeCH is in full swing right now, launching our pilot project in the Upper East and everyone working double time. The kids, Colleen and I are flying up there tomorrow for a durbar (community entry celebration) and for me to monitor the work and generally trouble shoot as the inevitable "launch issues" arise. The kids are hoping to show Colleen that the crocodiles really are friendly and I hope to get her out to a few rural health clinics (Colleen is a Physician's Assistant in the US) to get a slice of the "real" Africa. Then, the kids are back in Accra a few days before saying goodbye and heading back to the US with Colleen as chaperone. They will no doubt be totally worn out (as will I) by the time they board that flight.
Tonight is a big Ghana World Cup Game - they are the last real chance of an African team making it to the next round. Everyone here is rooting for them and it is sure to be an exciting evening all over Ghana! Another 100% Ghanaian experience for us all!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Wrapping up an Amazing Year
As some of you may have heard, our time living in Ghana is coming to an end sooner than expected. While we have loved our time here, it's also been very intense for every one of us and we all need a rest. For a variety of reasons, the kids and I decided that it's best to head back to the US this summer. I'll keep my job and will be "commuting" to work - a nearly 24 hour trip - about once every 4-6 weeks while I ensure the project is on track and a leadership transition is successful.
As usual with the "G" family, we're making the most of every moment. My project is ramping up for a launch of our service in the Upper East Region in about 2 weeks. Most of the Accra staff have temporarily moved to the north and I spent about 5 days there with the kids last week. It was an amazing experience for them - we attended "durbars" which are community entry celebrations where the project is introduced to the community and approved by the chief, Sophie photographed lots of our field work and made it out to 6 of the very rural clinics where we're working and Xavier spent a lot of time playing football. We even touched a crocodile at a crocodile pond just near the Burkina Faso border and toured an ancient village (check out the photos link on the right and see the one with Xavier and his "friend" who are both missing their front teeth!).
The kids finish school this week and are looking forward to getting back to their US classrooms. My good friend, Colleen, is arriving on Thursday for 2 weeks. While she's here, we'll head out to our favorite beach for a few days and then all of us are traveling up to the north so I can work and they can touch more crocodiles :) And, of course, we will be watching every Ghana World Cup Game!!!!!!
The kids leave for the US with Colleen on July 2nd. I'll stay behind in Ghana for a couple of weeks, continuing to work, wrap up the house and figure out how I am going to get the puppies back to the US with Delta/KLM having a general pet flying ban from May-Sept.due to heat. Somehow, we’ll all make it back to our favorite little island…….
As usual with the "G" family, we're making the most of every moment. My project is ramping up for a launch of our service in the Upper East Region in about 2 weeks. Most of the Accra staff have temporarily moved to the north and I spent about 5 days there with the kids last week. It was an amazing experience for them - we attended "durbars" which are community entry celebrations where the project is introduced to the community and approved by the chief, Sophie photographed lots of our field work and made it out to 6 of the very rural clinics where we're working and Xavier spent a lot of time playing football. We even touched a crocodile at a crocodile pond just near the Burkina Faso border and toured an ancient village (check out the photos link on the right and see the one with Xavier and his "friend" who are both missing their front teeth!).
The kids finish school this week and are looking forward to getting back to their US classrooms. My good friend, Colleen, is arriving on Thursday for 2 weeks. While she's here, we'll head out to our favorite beach for a few days and then all of us are traveling up to the north so I can work and they can touch more crocodiles :) And, of course, we will be watching every Ghana World Cup Game!!!!!!
The kids leave for the US with Colleen on July 2nd. I'll stay behind in Ghana for a couple of weeks, continuing to work, wrap up the house and figure out how I am going to get the puppies back to the US with Delta/KLM having a general pet flying ban from May-Sept.due to heat. Somehow, we’ll all make it back to our favorite little island…….
Friday, June 4, 2010
Africa in Our Souls - Sophie's View
Some days we love Africa, some days we just want to go home. Either way, there is no doubt that Africa has found its way into our hearts and souls. Sophie, who celebrated her 11th birthday this week, wrote the following poems about her time here:
I cannot bear the poverty in the air; sifting in and out of my world.
The smell nothing to me but the world to somebody.
_________
I see Africa.
I see Ghana.
I see life at the most happy extent.
Where there are the poorest people come the biggest hearts.
That is the way of Ghana.
That is the way of Africa.
__________________
A lapless ocean;
I stare motionless;
A lapless ocean.
Tomorrow, I am taking the kids to the Upper East Region, where we are about to implement our mobile phone work. It is the poorest region in the country and is the "real" Africa. We will be in Paga, a town just at the Burkina Faso border. All week, we have a series of "durbars" which are ceremonies where representative from the project go to the village chiefs in each village where we'll be working, brings them gifts and asks for their permission and blessing to do our work there. He presumably grants us this permission and my understanding is that dancing and music ensues. We'll see how it goes, but I have no doubt there will be many more deep impressions and processing from this amazing experience.......
I cannot bear the poverty in the air; sifting in and out of my world.
The smell nothing to me but the world to somebody.
_________
I see Africa.
I see Ghana.
I see life at the most happy extent.
Where there are the poorest people come the biggest hearts.
That is the way of Ghana.
That is the way of Africa.
__________________
A lapless ocean;
I stare motionless;
A lapless ocean.
Tomorrow, I am taking the kids to the Upper East Region, where we are about to implement our mobile phone work. It is the poorest region in the country and is the "real" Africa. We will be in Paga, a town just at the Burkina Faso border. All week, we have a series of "durbars" which are ceremonies where representative from the project go to the village chiefs in each village where we'll be working, brings them gifts and asks for their permission and blessing to do our work there. He presumably grants us this permission and my understanding is that dancing and music ensues. We'll see how it goes, but I have no doubt there will be many more deep impressions and processing from this amazing experience.......
Saturday, May 29, 2010
It's Raining Something....but it's not Cats and Dogs
As a 3 year old sister of one of Xavier's friends explained to me yesterday as she looked up at the clouds, there is the "rainy" and the "not rainy" season. After several rain storms in the past week or so and many nights of semi-comfortable sleep without air conditioning, I think it's safe to say that we are now in the "rainy season."
Let's be clear that when it rains here, it's not like in the Northwest US. It's not drizzly with periodic rain showers and a few sun breaks. No, it's an absolute, complete and total biblical opening of the sky deluge, often accompanied by gorgeous and intense flashes of lightning and booming thunder. There is no doubt that it's mother nature in charge and all you can do is hunker down where ever you are and wait for it to pass - which it usually does in 20 minutes to an hour.
So, it shouldn't be surprising that the entire eco-system seems to have changed. The rain seems to be giving life to all sorts of......interesting creatures. There are more varieties of ants than I ever knew existed - large ones with wings that fly around just after the rains, termites that look like they could ingest an entire forest and itsy bisty ants that you can feel on your skin but cannot see unless you have supersonic eyes. Of course, the mosquitoes seem to have multiplied, as evidenced by me having 2 staff out with severe malaria last week. These little guys make it difficult to enjoy the cool evening breeze - even though it feels good to be outside after a nice, cleansing rain, the chance of getting a bite - and malaria - makes the safety of the house and air conditioning look pretty good. And, there are cockroaches. Previous to the rains, cockroaches were an occasional annoyance. Now, the ones that creep out from their hiding spots look like creatures in a sci-fi movie, coming to carry small children away. They are gross and are one of the few creatures that can make me scream like a pre-teen drama queen who's just noticed a fly in her food - I know, because I have a pre-teen drama queen who sometimes keeps her cool with the bugs and other times - like last night at a friends' dinner party - informs the host that there were small bugs in the onions (probably oregano, but the imagination runs wild here). They were cooked – we noted the protein value of bugs and encouraged her to eat up.
So, it's the rainy season. I keep thinking of the phrase "it's raining cats and dogs". Sometimes, I think that would be easier to take than flying ants and mega sized cockroaches.....
(Colleen – sorry if this blog is difficult to “swallow” - we’ll do our best to keep your food bug free when you visit in a couple weeks – xxoo, k)
Let's be clear that when it rains here, it's not like in the Northwest US. It's not drizzly with periodic rain showers and a few sun breaks. No, it's an absolute, complete and total biblical opening of the sky deluge, often accompanied by gorgeous and intense flashes of lightning and booming thunder. There is no doubt that it's mother nature in charge and all you can do is hunker down where ever you are and wait for it to pass - which it usually does in 20 minutes to an hour.
So, it shouldn't be surprising that the entire eco-system seems to have changed. The rain seems to be giving life to all sorts of......interesting creatures. There are more varieties of ants than I ever knew existed - large ones with wings that fly around just after the rains, termites that look like they could ingest an entire forest and itsy bisty ants that you can feel on your skin but cannot see unless you have supersonic eyes. Of course, the mosquitoes seem to have multiplied, as evidenced by me having 2 staff out with severe malaria last week. These little guys make it difficult to enjoy the cool evening breeze - even though it feels good to be outside after a nice, cleansing rain, the chance of getting a bite - and malaria - makes the safety of the house and air conditioning look pretty good. And, there are cockroaches. Previous to the rains, cockroaches were an occasional annoyance. Now, the ones that creep out from their hiding spots look like creatures in a sci-fi movie, coming to carry small children away. They are gross and are one of the few creatures that can make me scream like a pre-teen drama queen who's just noticed a fly in her food - I know, because I have a pre-teen drama queen who sometimes keeps her cool with the bugs and other times - like last night at a friends' dinner party - informs the host that there were small bugs in the onions (probably oregano, but the imagination runs wild here). They were cooked – we noted the protein value of bugs and encouraged her to eat up.
So, it's the rainy season. I keep thinking of the phrase "it's raining cats and dogs". Sometimes, I think that would be easier to take than flying ants and mega sized cockroaches.....
(Colleen – sorry if this blog is difficult to “swallow” - we’ll do our best to keep your food bug free when you visit in a couple weeks – xxoo, k)
Friday, May 14, 2010
Anything Can happen.....Anything
In the past week, I have learned something essential: anything can happen. Last Friday, relieved to finally be released by my physicians to return to Ghana, I boarded an Afriqiyah Airlines flight from London, headed to Tripoli with a 2 hour layover and planned to be in Accra within 10 hours. About the time we were supposed to land in Libya, an announcement was made in Arabic then a much more brief one in English. All I could understand was that we were landing somewhere other than Tripoli due to weather. I assumed it was a nearby airport in Libya. As we landed, I could see an amazing landscape with white cliffs plunging into the sea. Didn't remember this when I landed in Tripoli on my way to London. It was not until we were on the ground that I finally figured out we were in Malta. I had to rack my brain to recall where, exactly, Malta is. We got off the plane and filed into the Malta airport. No information about how long we might be there, what it might mean to connecting flights....nothing. After a moment of extreme irritation and anxiety, I took a deep breath and reminded myself that I was on Afriqiyah Airline (Libyan owned) and, therefore, was now operating under a totally different set of norms than I would expect from a US or European company. I took a deep breath and endeavored to make the most of it. After 6 hours and no information, all of a sudden, everyone went to the gate and we were ushered back onto our plane, headed for Tripoli. Once in Tripoli, most passengers found that their connecting flights had been held for them. All of them, that is, except the flight to Accra. It had left an hour earlier with a total of 7 passengers aboard. That left 35 of us stranded in Tripoli. After much confusion, we were told that Afriqiyah would arrange for a hotel and we'd get the next flight out to Accra. I'm thinking that would be the following morning. Wrong. That would be in 2 days!! Our passports were taken from us and all Afriqiyah officials left - presumably to get us visas. By 2:30am, I finally asked the only "official" I could find what was happening. I was told in broken English that there was "no hotel" and "no passports". I assessed the situation: I am the only American in the airport. American and Libya do not exactly have diplomatic relations. I do not have a passport. This is not good. Thankfully, Grameen has a great emergency support system in place, I contacted them and then got an emergency contact for the US Embassy in Tripoli. Finally, at 6am, the Afriqiyah officials reappeared and we were all ushered through customs and out to await transport to a hotel - without our passports. We were told we would get them back when we returned to the airport in 2 days for departure. They didn't want us "staying". Not likely I'll be emigrating to Libya.
I met a fellow passenger who is a pilot for Emirates and knew Tripoli. We spent the two days exploring Tripoli and learning a lot about the history and politics. Libya has some of the most intact Roman ruins in the world and was formerly an Italian colony. It felt amazing - I knew that it was a once in a lifetime opportunity to be an American, in Qadaffi Libya, roaming around freely for 2 days admiring the ruins and the coastline, seeing how obviously progress has stopped in the past 40 years of Qadaffi's rule and noticing how much money must be spent on printing and erecting Qadaffi images of prosperity and African Unity everywhere and how little is spent on basic human needs.
Finally, nearly 72 hours after leaving London, I arrived back to Ghana to two very, very happy children, their relieved father and 2 puppies who were so excited they piddled when they saw me. Just glad it was the pups and not the kids who piddled!
Less than 2 days after arriving safely in Accra, I learned of the Afriqiyah airline crash on the approach to Tripoli. It stopped my heart, felt way too close for comfort and reminded me how very fragile life is and how blessed I was to be back safely with my kids.
I met a fellow passenger who is a pilot for Emirates and knew Tripoli. We spent the two days exploring Tripoli and learning a lot about the history and politics. Libya has some of the most intact Roman ruins in the world and was formerly an Italian colony. It felt amazing - I knew that it was a once in a lifetime opportunity to be an American, in Qadaffi Libya, roaming around freely for 2 days admiring the ruins and the coastline, seeing how obviously progress has stopped in the past 40 years of Qadaffi's rule and noticing how much money must be spent on printing and erecting Qadaffi images of prosperity and African Unity everywhere and how little is spent on basic human needs.
Finally, nearly 72 hours after leaving London, I arrived back to Ghana to two very, very happy children, their relieved father and 2 puppies who were so excited they piddled when they saw me. Just glad it was the pups and not the kids who piddled!
Less than 2 days after arriving safely in Accra, I learned of the Afriqiyah airline crash on the approach to Tripoli. It stopped my heart, felt way too close for comfort and reminded me how very fragile life is and how blessed I was to be back safely with my kids.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Homeward Bound
After 2 weeks in London of poking, prodding and every test known to modern medicine, I'm finally heading back to Ghana later this week. All in all, I've got a few underlying conditions that are manageable but have one very fatigued body that got a bad infection in Ghana and that never has fully recovered from 4 years of staggering physical and life changing events. I've got to eat even healthier, get more consistent rest, reduce stress and generally hope that I don't get another infection anytime soon.
I miss the kids and puppies desperately but Cedric has done an amazing job of holding down the fort while I've been away which has made being here easier. I think everyone will be happy to have mommy home but might be a little bummed when I open my bags and they're filled with wheat grass, raw food bars and herbal supplements :)
Despite the conditions for being here, London has been a really amazing respite. The medical system here has been holistic and world class on every level and I've been staying in a studio flat close to the clinic where I've been receiving care. It's near Marleybone High Street, a very high-end part of town with an abundance of cool shops and little cafes a short walk away. I'm feeling spoiled being able to walk to get fair-trade, organic cappuccinos, nap in the afternoons and be able to snack on rocket salads and stone oven pizzas anytime. I've seen a couple of dance programs and a Pulitzer prize winning play, Ruined, that was set in the Congo.
I have to get myself mentally prepared to return to Ghana. I've been coddled with traffic lights that people actually obey, indicators painted on the street corners telling pedestrians which way to look for cars, level sidewalks with covered drains and a general sense of orderliness that is one piece of British influence that hasn't yet "stuck" in Ghana! I can't wait to get back to the color and chaos of it all......
My favorite British motto - an old World War II propoganda poster that pretty much sums up life for me........
I miss the kids and puppies desperately but Cedric has done an amazing job of holding down the fort while I've been away which has made being here easier. I think everyone will be happy to have mommy home but might be a little bummed when I open my bags and they're filled with wheat grass, raw food bars and herbal supplements :)
Despite the conditions for being here, London has been a really amazing respite. The medical system here has been holistic and world class on every level and I've been staying in a studio flat close to the clinic where I've been receiving care. It's near Marleybone High Street, a very high-end part of town with an abundance of cool shops and little cafes a short walk away. I'm feeling spoiled being able to walk to get fair-trade, organic cappuccinos, nap in the afternoons and be able to snack on rocket salads and stone oven pizzas anytime. I've seen a couple of dance programs and a Pulitzer prize winning play, Ruined, that was set in the Congo.
I have to get myself mentally prepared to return to Ghana. I've been coddled with traffic lights that people actually obey, indicators painted on the street corners telling pedestrians which way to look for cars, level sidewalks with covered drains and a general sense of orderliness that is one piece of British influence that hasn't yet "stuck" in Ghana! I can't wait to get back to the color and chaos of it all......
My favorite British motto - an old World War II propoganda poster that pretty much sums up life for me........
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Finally in London
After much chaos, flight delays and a fascinating stopover in Libya, I am finally in London. The handshake at the airport worked and I my name magically showed up on the flight manifest for Afriqiyah Airline's first post-ash flight to London. The people who showed up at the airport in Accra with boxing gloves did not make the flight. Seems that faith and charm were the more effective tools this time.
I'm not quite sure how to describe Tripoli. There was something odd about the general energy in the airport - everyone was pretty much flying through to other places, I'm not sure many people actually leave the airport there and i'm pretty certain I was the only American in the whole place. The landscape was really dilapidated and it all felt a bit eerie. I spent $5 on 3 post cards of Qaddafi. Very overpriced, but I wasn't exactly in the position to bargain. I just couldn't resist the image of him in those sunglasses that look like they've been sitting on his face since he stepped into power in 1972.
London has been a wonderful breath of spring air. I've been really tired, so mostly just resting in the little studio flat where I'm staying, with a few outings to local markets. Being here makes me realize how hard it is living in Accra. All the little conveniences - healthy food available at reasonable prices just down the street, being able to walk places without melting or being hit by a crazy tro-tro driver, fast and reliable internet and the general orderliness of it all.
Thanks to all of you who have been emailing and calling with your support. I really, really appreciate it and it's making this trip a bit easier. I'll keep you all updated on how things go. I'm just glad to finally be here!
I'm not quite sure how to describe Tripoli. There was something odd about the general energy in the airport - everyone was pretty much flying through to other places, I'm not sure many people actually leave the airport there and i'm pretty certain I was the only American in the whole place. The landscape was really dilapidated and it all felt a bit eerie. I spent $5 on 3 post cards of Qaddafi. Very overpriced, but I wasn't exactly in the position to bargain. I just couldn't resist the image of him in those sunglasses that look like they've been sitting on his face since he stepped into power in 1972.
London has been a wonderful breath of spring air. I've been really tired, so mostly just resting in the little studio flat where I'm staying, with a few outings to local markets. Being here makes me realize how hard it is living in Accra. All the little conveniences - healthy food available at reasonable prices just down the street, being able to walk places without melting or being hit by a crazy tro-tro driver, fast and reliable internet and the general orderliness of it all.
Thanks to all of you who have been emailing and calling with your support. I really, really appreciate it and it's making this trip a bit easier. I'll keep you all updated on how things go. I'm just glad to finally be here!
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Faith, Charm and Boxing Gloves
I'm still in Ghana not feeling very well and trying desperately to get to London. By now, all the flights to New York are booked for at least a week, so holding tight to my London ticket and trying to get rebooked is about all I can do. I've spent the past 3 days making phone calls to several Afriqiyah Air #s here in Ghana as well as their main offices in Tripoli. I have shown up at their local air representative office several times. I just keep being told they don't have any information yet as to how they will handle rebookings. Today, in tears and at my absolute edge, I went to the airport office (no one answered the phone all morning, so I decided to go prepared to sit there until they gave me an answer), explained my situation and told the guy I would not leave his office until I knew I was getting on the next flight out. He was very good humored about it all and assured me he would get me on tonight's fully booked flight to Tripoli. I asked for a confirmation. His response was so very, very Ghanaian (and pretty Zen): "We did not have an appointment to meet today, yet here we both are. You do not need a confirmation. Come tonight, and I will get you on the plane." I looked him straight in the eyes, asked him his name and then for his absolute assurance and shook his hand. I guess that's as good a confirmation as one can get........
So, I will show up at the airport tonight, armed with faith, charm and boxing gloves - just in case.
So, I will show up at the airport tonight, armed with faith, charm and boxing gloves - just in case.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Ashes, Ashes We All Stay on the Ground
I've spent much of the week trying to get a flight to London to make the medical appts. I've got scheduled. Unfortunately, I did not make it out of Ghana prior to the ash cloud erupting and floating oh so slowly over Europe. My insurance company finally called last night and they've gotten me a flight out Monday night - on Afriqiyah Airlines via Tripoli, Libya. Seriously. This medical trip to London will no doubt be even more of an adventure than I had already thought. I really hope I don't get stranded in Libya. Not exactly a woman-friendly or American-friendly place to find yourself unexpectedly grounded.
I found myself getting very stressed over the whole ordeal of getting a flight. Then, I realized that it didn't matter whether I had a ticket or not - the ash cloud would determine whether and when I get to London. I took several deep breaths and decided that this is just one, big cosmic lesson for us all - all our technology, pushing a button and getting what we want when we want it - is all just an illusion of some sort of control. In the end, it's Mother Nature and all of her amazing forces that controls what really goes on. I'll be appealing to her for a lift in the cloud that allows me to get safely into and out of Tripoli and landed safely on the ground in London..........
I found myself getting very stressed over the whole ordeal of getting a flight. Then, I realized that it didn't matter whether I had a ticket or not - the ash cloud would determine whether and when I get to London. I took several deep breaths and decided that this is just one, big cosmic lesson for us all - all our technology, pushing a button and getting what we want when we want it - is all just an illusion of some sort of control. In the end, it's Mother Nature and all of her amazing forces that controls what really goes on. I'll be appealing to her for a lift in the cloud that allows me to get safely into and out of Tripoli and landed safely on the ground in London..........
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
London Calling
Since Easter, I've had a whole new cultural experience - the Ghanaian medical system. The kids & I were at the beach for the holiday and I came down with a serious fever, body aches and acute abdominal pain. After a couple of days of only getting worse, I finally called various doctors here and in the US and it started to look like another case of diverticulitis. We packed up and drove to Accra late Saturday night and I headed to a private hospital. They wanted cash when I checked in - I know from previous experience with diverticulitis that it's not easy or quick to deal with and knew I didn't have the cash for a several night stay and oodles of procedures. I finally paid them about $70 and assured them that I would straighten things out with my insurance company after I saw the doctor, got some antibiotics and rest.
The biggest difference I saw between the US and Ghanaian system was that they tend to have a more "wait and see" approach vs. doing probes, scans and medications for every little thing. They also did not start an immediate morphine drip - which seems to be standard protocol in the US (I think they've decided that drugged patients are easier to manage). The other big difference was the tape. Yes, the tape – the kind used for IVs. They have some sort of light brown old school tape that sticks horribly to the skin - and hair. Apparently, Ghanaians tend to not have a lot of body hair, so the tape isn't too problematic. However, for those of us with lighter skin - and more hair - it hurts like hell. I had the kids bring me some no-stick medical tape from home to be used for the remainder of my stay. The food was also not really helpful for diverticulitis - oily sauces, fried proteins and fried potatoes or rice. I ended up having my housekeeper bring me oatmeal and fruit.
The hospital did not have a CT scanner. So, I had to go to another clinic for a scan. Getting the scan was one thing - getting someone who could interpret it properly is entirely another. After more than a week of being better but still not feeling well, I'm heading to London for more tests. While it seems weird to jaunt off to London for medical tests, I am trying to think of it like living on the Island - I often had to go "off island" for medical tests (which meant Seattle or Tacoma). This time, I'm just going "off continent" (which means London)!
The biggest difference I saw between the US and Ghanaian system was that they tend to have a more "wait and see" approach vs. doing probes, scans and medications for every little thing. They also did not start an immediate morphine drip - which seems to be standard protocol in the US (I think they've decided that drugged patients are easier to manage). The other big difference was the tape. Yes, the tape – the kind used for IVs. They have some sort of light brown old school tape that sticks horribly to the skin - and hair. Apparently, Ghanaians tend to not have a lot of body hair, so the tape isn't too problematic. However, for those of us with lighter skin - and more hair - it hurts like hell. I had the kids bring me some no-stick medical tape from home to be used for the remainder of my stay. The food was also not really helpful for diverticulitis - oily sauces, fried proteins and fried potatoes or rice. I ended up having my housekeeper bring me oatmeal and fruit.
The hospital did not have a CT scanner. So, I had to go to another clinic for a scan. Getting the scan was one thing - getting someone who could interpret it properly is entirely another. After more than a week of being better but still not feeling well, I'm heading to London for more tests. While it seems weird to jaunt off to London for medical tests, I am trying to think of it like living on the Island - I often had to go "off island" for medical tests (which meant Seattle or Tacoma). This time, I'm just going "off continent" (which means London)!
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Sibling Love
They all get along so well.....when they're sleeping! Rosie & Zig Zag, Sophie & Xavier (or RoSo and Zig Xavier when I'm confused) wear each other out - thankfully.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Across the World and Back Again
In the past 2 weeks, I've found myself feeling grateful to catch a glimpse of Orca whales playing near the Vashon ferry, experienced SNOW on Vashon in Spring, gotten up on skis for the first time in over 20 years, took in the beauty of winter turning to spring in Montana and spent several glorious days wondering around New York City in 75 degree weather with cherry trees popping. My first trip back to the US in 7 months was prompted by work meetings and extended to spend time with mom and friends. It's been a whirlwind and has taken me some time to let all if it settle. My first impressions of the US were: I forgot how cold toilet seats can get and I forgot how amazing crisp, cool spring air can feel (as long as you're not sitting on a cold toilet seat).
After a few days in the US I also started to realize how much more introverted people tend to be in the US and how much we tend to wear dark blues, grays and black. Ghana somehow feels like it's overflowing with color and expression and being in the Northwest just as people were stumbling out of winter hibernation was a sharp contrast to the hot, steamy weather, loud music and general pulsing energy of Accra.
I also brought Rosie, our new puppy, back with me. She met me in New York where I had her fluffy coat shaved down in anticipation of the heat and we flew to Accra on the same flights. She did great - adjusted quickly and spends her days romping and playing with her little big brother, Zig Zag. The kids adore her and she's become a quick member of our little family.
After a few days in the US I also started to realize how much more introverted people tend to be in the US and how much we tend to wear dark blues, grays and black. Ghana somehow feels like it's overflowing with color and expression and being in the Northwest just as people were stumbling out of winter hibernation was a sharp contrast to the hot, steamy weather, loud music and general pulsing energy of Accra.
I also brought Rosie, our new puppy, back with me. She met me in New York where I had her fluffy coat shaved down in anticipation of the heat and we flew to Accra on the same flights. She did great - adjusted quickly and spends her days romping and playing with her little big brother, Zig Zag. The kids adore her and she's become a quick member of our little family.
Rosie & Kirsten in NYC
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Conflict
I've been feeling a sense of unrest, of conflict lately and was having a hard time pinpointing the source. This piece came to me today and I think it articulates the larger human conflict that Africa so poignantly highlights to us all....
Africa
Teeming with life, flooded with death.
Human ability to face adversity with grace, faith, wisdom, strength and joy, a battle ground of the worst atrocities humans can impart on one another.
Old, wise sages bringing forth the wisdom of the ages, the utter incredulousness of babies being plucked from life for lack of basic resources.
Overflowing with riches, buried in poverty.
The intensity and complexities of human life shown to us all in Technicolor.
Africa
Teeming with life, flooded with death.
Human ability to face adversity with grace, faith, wisdom, strength and joy, a battle ground of the worst atrocities humans can impart on one another.
Old, wise sages bringing forth the wisdom of the ages, the utter incredulousness of babies being plucked from life for lack of basic resources.
Overflowing with riches, buried in poverty.
The intensity and complexities of human life shown to us all in Technicolor.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
It's HOT and I'm White
As part of my work, I frequently travel to the Upper East Region of Ghana. It’s the northernmost part of the country, just on the Burkina Faso border. It's also the poorest region and the furthest away from Accra. I like going up to the North - it's what I think of as the "real" Africa. Accra is Africa "light" - decent restaurants, generators around when electricity fails, supermarkets where Cheerios are $12 a box. But, the North is mud huts, extreme poverty, baobab trees with wise old men hanging out underneath, skinny cows, pregnant goats and donkeys straying into the road. And, extreme heat.
We are just at the beginning of the hot season. On my trip up to the North this week, it was about 110 degrees and the electricity was out much of the time. As I sat in a small, overcrowded office at 2:00 in the afternoon without electricity (no A/C, no fans), I watched as the Ghanaians in the room rigorously debated antenatal and post natal care procedures while I sat slumped in my chair, drinking a liter of water with electrolyte mix and STILL feeling like I was about to pass out from heat exhaustion, my delirium momentarily parted and something became really, really clear: I am white. Not only that, my forefathers (and mothers) were mostly from Sweden and Germany. Places where bodies have not been fine tuned by nature to easily adapt to extreme heat for long periods of time. While my Ghanaian colleagues sip a bit of water here and there, look all fresh in their beautiful head-to-toe custom tailored outfits and gracefully dab the sweat on their brows with a cloth, I am drinking as much water as I can take and am practically panting like a dog with sweat seeping through my clothes and running down my legs - from simply sitting there!
So, I've had to come to terms with the fact that for the next several months - at least until the weather drops to under 100 degrees - I will just have to get used to being the sweaty, delicate “obruni” (white person) who's just not from ‘round here.
Photo below of one of the village clinics I visited. Yes, the man is wearing a ski cap. Yes, it was over 100 degrees when I took this photo.
We are just at the beginning of the hot season. On my trip up to the North this week, it was about 110 degrees and the electricity was out much of the time. As I sat in a small, overcrowded office at 2:00 in the afternoon without electricity (no A/C, no fans), I watched as the Ghanaians in the room rigorously debated antenatal and post natal care procedures while I sat slumped in my chair, drinking a liter of water with electrolyte mix and STILL feeling like I was about to pass out from heat exhaustion, my delirium momentarily parted and something became really, really clear: I am white. Not only that, my forefathers (and mothers) were mostly from Sweden and Germany. Places where bodies have not been fine tuned by nature to easily adapt to extreme heat for long periods of time. While my Ghanaian colleagues sip a bit of water here and there, look all fresh in their beautiful head-to-toe custom tailored outfits and gracefully dab the sweat on their brows with a cloth, I am drinking as much water as I can take and am practically panting like a dog with sweat seeping through my clothes and running down my legs - from simply sitting there!
So, I've had to come to terms with the fact that for the next several months - at least until the weather drops to under 100 degrees - I will just have to get used to being the sweaty, delicate “obruni” (white person) who's just not from ‘round here.
Photo below of one of the village clinics I visited. Yes, the man is wearing a ski cap. Yes, it was over 100 degrees when I took this photo.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Pupdate (puppy update)
We're working on getting pup #1 - Zig Zag - all trained before pup #2 - Rosie (as in the Riveter) arrives in late March. Zig is an animated, smart little thing who seems to think Xavier is just another puppy. Xavier is learning to be the "AB" (alpha bitch) and also learning that it's best to wear clothing when there's a small puppy who jumps up and nips at anything that's.....dangling. We're taking Zig to a dog trainer. Ends up this guy is the ultimate AB. He trains guard dogs and, as he puts it, "knows everything there is to know about dogs". Sophie decided that was an invitation to find something that would "baffle" him. She probably will. The guy is a total character - missing a few teeth, sipping whiskey, over 6 feet tall - all bark and no bite - makes it clear he likes dogs and not people. But, he's a good dog trainer and our little pup will be ship shape in no time (I hope).
We took Zig to the beach last weekend. It was a bit overwhelming for him, as you can see in the photo below. But, we figured that any dog of ours has to be able to hang at the beach and take in a bit of adventure......
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Article About MoTeCH
This article on MoTeCH, the project I'm managing in Ghana (i.e. the reason we're here!), was relased yesterday and gives a great summary of the work.
http://mobileactive.org/motech-new-approach-health-care
http://mobileactive.org/motech-new-approach-health-care
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
The Many Layers of Settling In
Every couple of weeks I hit another layer of feeling like "we're finally settled". Then, another couple of weeks pass and I realize that we're settled again - at another level. I've discovered that being settled is a process a bit like peeling an onion. There is layer after layer and sometimes the act of peeling can make you cry! It's definitely been 6 months that have stretched our minds, challenged my sanity and wreaked havoc on our stomachs – especially Sophie’s But, all in all, we are settling into yet another layer of living in our new little homeland. Some of the things we've come to learn during our time here: The kids have learned that when they order food, they need to have plan a, b and c because there's a good chance what they want is "finished". They've learned not to be too tied to any particular expectation of what their food will actually be when it arrives (e.g. my chicken fajita today was a piece of fried chicken with spices and a side of fries), Xavier figured out that playing football barefoot makes your feet raw when you make 13 goals in a row. I've learned that it's more effective to use a horn than brakes or a turn signal - especially for dodging chickens and goats. I've also learned that the puppy needs to be dewormed every 2 weeks, the kids every 2 months. We all know that at any given time, the electricity may go out, the water may stop running and the internet and/or mobile phone network will go down. The kids know all sorts of facts about Britain - from the meaning of "chamber pot" to the British involvement in WWII to referring to the mark at the end of a sentence as a "full stop" (I honestly don't think Xavier knows what a period is). Sophie has learned that she has a delicate stomach and can't eat the food at school or it will reappear during during class. I have learned to be very, very fluid and not hold too tightly to any particular thing happening at any particular day or time. I've also learned that it takes a village - not just to raise children but to simply live a life! And, we've all learned from the Ghanaians around us that people can be very happy and have hearts filled with joy even without video games, tvs, fancy cars and fancy clothes. Perhaps that is the most important layer of this particular onion…..
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Hope
In a country where names like "Patience" and "Blessing" are common, I shouldn't be surprised to find Hope everywhere. A couple of weeks ago when we brought our puppy home, we asked our security guard, a 60+ year old man who seems very wise, what we should name the dog - without hesitation, he said "Hope". It somehow felt much deeper than a suggested name for a dog.
Tonight, Ghana played Egypt in the final for the Africa Cup of Nations. Going into the tournament a couple of weeks ago, Ghana's chances weren't looking so great. At least 5 of their top players were out with injuries. On the day of the first round game, I asked my driver how he thought the team would do. I was expecting some sort of smart remark about the injuries, but instead he said simply "they will do their best". As Ghana kept advancing, Ghanaian pride became more and more obvious - cars with flags, people wearing Black Star shirts, everyone talking about "the game". I, of course, was not going to miss this. I dropped the kids off at a Pirate Birthday party that was strategically timed for the duration of the game and I headed to the Guinness outdoor screen and stage that had been setup for the Africa Cup. I'm sure there were other Obrunis (white people) there, but I didn't see any. I just enjoyed being in the middle of true Ghanaian spirit. Everything I observed reinforced the feeling of hope....people being interviewed prior to the game said things like "no matter the consequence, Ghana is the winner". "Ghana will do its best, who wins does not matter." Easy enough to say before the game, but what about afterwards, when Ghana lost 1-0, Egypt making the only score of the game in the last five minutes? People were still proud. The announcer on the radio kept trying to make Ghana out to be the sad loser, making comments about "poor Ghana" and how "devastated" Ghana must be. But when fans were interviewed, they remained upbeat and the most typically Ghanaian comment I heard was "Hope is not lost.....we lost to a very good team and we played well. There is hope."
Yes, there is hope. And, yes, Ghana IS the winner.......
Tonight, Ghana played Egypt in the final for the Africa Cup of Nations. Going into the tournament a couple of weeks ago, Ghana's chances weren't looking so great. At least 5 of their top players were out with injuries. On the day of the first round game, I asked my driver how he thought the team would do. I was expecting some sort of smart remark about the injuries, but instead he said simply "they will do their best". As Ghana kept advancing, Ghanaian pride became more and more obvious - cars with flags, people wearing Black Star shirts, everyone talking about "the game". I, of course, was not going to miss this. I dropped the kids off at a Pirate Birthday party that was strategically timed for the duration of the game and I headed to the Guinness outdoor screen and stage that had been setup for the Africa Cup. I'm sure there were other Obrunis (white people) there, but I didn't see any. I just enjoyed being in the middle of true Ghanaian spirit. Everything I observed reinforced the feeling of hope....people being interviewed prior to the game said things like "no matter the consequence, Ghana is the winner". "Ghana will do its best, who wins does not matter." Easy enough to say before the game, but what about afterwards, when Ghana lost 1-0, Egypt making the only score of the game in the last five minutes? People were still proud. The announcer on the radio kept trying to make Ghana out to be the sad loser, making comments about "poor Ghana" and how "devastated" Ghana must be. But when fans were interviewed, they remained upbeat and the most typically Ghanaian comment I heard was "Hope is not lost.....we lost to a very good team and we played well. There is hope."
Yes, there is hope. And, yes, Ghana IS the winner.......
Monday, January 25, 2010
Puppy Love
think the heat is getting to my brain. I have never been a "dog person" yet somehow I found myself thinking that getting a dog here would be a good idea. My rationale was roughly this: I have all tile floors - making doggy "accidents" less of a big deal, I have a housekeeper & yard keeper around during the day to help out, I have a large, fully gated yard, dog trainers and vets are well trained and relatively inexpensive here and the kids seem like they're at an age where they can actually take responsibility for a pup. Somehow that logic went from getting a puppy to deciding we needed a Goldendoodle (golden retriever/poodle mix) since they don't shed and are low-allergen, to falling in love with #6 female - a pup from a breeder in Canada, having the pup shipped to NYC, where I'll be in March, me bringing the pup back to Ghana and us living happily ever after with our new little family member. Of course, we would have first read up on dog behavior, have a dog trainer picked out and have everything all ready for our new arrival. Next thing I know, we're walking down the street in the main commercial center of Accra and see a guy standing on the corner selling a pup that looks a lot like a Goldendoodle. We've NEVER seen a dog like that here. Turns out it is a poodle/Chihuahua mix. Much begging, pleading, planning and cajoling ensued. By the time we had finished dinner, we were scouring the streets, looking for the puppy seller. That night, we came home with Zig Zag, a little boy pup who is waiting to be joined in March by #6 female, his sister from Canada. He is very sweet and is already a part of the family. We’re working on getting a dog trainer, I’m trying to read the last couple chapters of the dog behavior book and I’m remembering what it was like getting up every couple of hours at night with a baby. Peeing seems to be a sport for him - I've nicknamed him the "little big piddler" and I'm just grateful I have tile floors…..
Female #6 - arriving in March
Zig Zag - 11 weeks
Female #6 - arriving in March
Zig Zag - 11 weeksFriday, January 15, 2010
RAIN!!!
I know all of you back in the Northwest are lamenting the rain, rain, rain. Too much of anything is, well, too much. We've been having too much sun. Tonight, the skies opened up and we were deluged with sweet rain! Powerful lightning burst through the sky and the earth rumbled with thunder and it went on for a couple of hours. We were delighted! I think the pictures below speak for themselves.......
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Riding into the New Year
Aaaah, after spending an amazing week at Axim Beach on Ghana's West Coast (near the Cote d'Ivoire border), we are getting back into the school/work routine. The kids had a full month off due to a mis-guided swine flu scare and we (ok, I) decided that is WAY too much unstructured time. I had a much needed break over the holidays and am starting the year rejuvenated and ready for the many project deadlines coming up in the next several months.
The kids started horseback riding lessons a few weeks ago. I take them to the nearby military base where I pay about $5.50 each for them to have a 1 hour lesson. At that price, we're going twice a week! A colleague from the US just returned from a visit to the States with new paddock boots &; riding pants for the kids - items not found in Ghana. As I was sitting at the base, watching the kids ride, the sun set, women & kids waiting in line for water and the base camel walking around, I realized that we have officially moved from the "survival" phase (e.g. where do I get toilet paper, how do I drive here, what line do I stand in at the bank) into the "there's more to life than work/school/sleep/procuring supplies" phase. We finally have a few signs that we are settling in - horseback riding, a new tent (currently pitched in the living room) for beach camping , dinner at a friends' house, a few key Twi phrases and my driving has progressed from "Vashon Island Casual" to "Accra Combat" - using the horn instead of the breaks. We are practically native (ha!).
The kids started horseback riding lessons a few weeks ago. I take them to the nearby military base where I pay about $5.50 each for them to have a 1 hour lesson. At that price, we're going twice a week! A colleague from the US just returned from a visit to the States with new paddock boots &; riding pants for the kids - items not found in Ghana. As I was sitting at the base, watching the kids ride, the sun set, women & kids waiting in line for water and the base camel walking around, I realized that we have officially moved from the "survival" phase (e.g. where do I get toilet paper, how do I drive here, what line do I stand in at the bank) into the "there's more to life than work/school/sleep/procuring supplies" phase. We finally have a few signs that we are settling in - horseback riding, a new tent (currently pitched in the living room) for beach camping , dinner at a friends' house, a few key Twi phrases and my driving has progressed from "Vashon Island Casual" to "Accra Combat" - using the horn instead of the breaks. We are practically native (ha!).
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