It's Raining Something....but it's not Cats and Dogs

As a 3 year old sister of one of Xavier's friends explained to me yesterday as she looked up at the clouds, there is the "rainy" and the "not rainy" season. After several rain storms in the past week or so and many nights of semi-comfortable sleep without air conditioning, I think it's safe to say that we are now in the "rainy season."


Let's be clear that when it rains here, it's not like in the Northwest US. It's not drizzly with periodic rain showers and a few sun breaks. No, it's an absolute, complete and total biblical opening of the sky deluge, often accompanied by gorgeous and intense flashes of lightning and booming thunder. There is no doubt that it's mother nature in charge and all you can do is hunker down where ever you are and wait for it to pass - which it usually does in 20 minutes to an hour.

So, it shouldn't be surprising that the entire eco-system seems to have changed. The rain seems to be giving life to all sorts of......interesting creatures. There are more varieties of ants than I ever knew existed - large ones with wings that fly around just after the rains, termites that look like they could ingest an entire forest and itsy bisty ants that you can feel on your skin but cannot see unless you have supersonic eyes. Of course, the mosquitoes seem to have multiplied, as evidenced by me having 2 staff out with severe malaria last week. These little guys make it difficult to enjoy the cool evening breeze - even though it feels good to be outside after a nice, cleansing rain, the chance of getting a bite - and malaria - makes the safety of the house and air conditioning look pretty good. And, there are cockroaches. Previous to the rains, cockroaches were an occasional annoyance. Now, the ones that creep out from their hiding spots look like creatures in a sci-fi movie, coming to carry small children away. They are gross and are one of the few creatures that can make me scream like a pre-teen drama queen who's just noticed a fly in her food - I know, because I have a pre-teen drama queen who sometimes keeps her cool with the bugs and other times - like last night at a friends' dinner party - informs the host that there were small bugs in the onions (probably oregano, but the imagination runs wild here). They were cooked – we noted the protein value of bugs and encouraged her to eat up.

So, it's the rainy season. I keep thinking of the phrase "it's raining cats and dogs". Sometimes, I think that would be easier to take than flying ants and mega sized cockroaches.....

(Colleen – sorry if this blog is difficult to “swallow” - we’ll do our best to keep your food bug free when you visit in a couple weeks – xxoo, k)

Anything Can happen.....Anything

In the past week, I have learned something essential: anything can happen. Last Friday, relieved to finally be released by my physicians to return to Ghana, I boarded an Afriqiyah Airlines flight from London, headed to Tripoli with a 2 hour layover and planned to be in Accra within 10 hours. About the time we were supposed to land in Libya, an announcement was made in Arabic then a much more brief one in English. All I could understand was that we were landing somewhere other than Tripoli due to weather. I assumed it was a nearby airport in Libya. As we landed, I could see an amazing landscape with white cliffs plunging into the sea. Didn't remember this when I landed in Tripoli on my way to London. It was not until we were on the ground that I finally figured out we were in Malta. I had to rack my brain to recall where, exactly, Malta is. We got off the plane and filed into the Malta airport. No information about how long we might be there, what it might mean to connecting flights....nothing. After a moment of extreme irritation and anxiety, I took a deep breath and reminded myself that I was on Afriqiyah Airline (Libyan owned) and, therefore, was now operating under a totally different set of norms than I would expect from a US or European company. I took a deep breath and endeavored to make the most of it. After 6 hours and no information, all of a sudden, everyone went to the gate and we were ushered back onto our plane, headed for Tripoli. Once in Tripoli, most passengers found that their connecting flights had been held for them. All of them, that is, except the flight to Accra. It had left an hour earlier with a total of 7 passengers aboard. That left 35 of us stranded in Tripoli. After much confusion, we were told that Afriqiyah would arrange for a hotel and we'd get the next flight out to Accra. I'm thinking that would be the following morning. Wrong. That would be in 2 days!! Our passports were taken from us and all Afriqiyah officials left - presumably to get us visas. By 2:30am, I finally asked the only "official" I could find what was happening. I was told in broken English that there was "no hotel" and "no passports". I assessed the situation: I am the only American in the airport. American and Libya do not exactly have diplomatic relations. I do not have a passport. This is not good. Thankfully, Grameen has a great emergency support system in place, I contacted them and then got an emergency contact for the US Embassy in Tripoli. Finally, at 6am, the Afriqiyah officials reappeared and we were all ushered through customs and out to await transport to a hotel - without our passports. We were told we would get them back when we returned to the airport in 2 days for departure. They didn't want us "staying". Not likely I'll be emigrating to Libya.


I met a fellow passenger who is a pilot for Emirates and knew Tripoli. We spent the two days exploring Tripoli and learning a lot about the history and politics. Libya has some of the most intact Roman ruins in the world and was formerly an Italian colony. It felt amazing - I knew that it was a once in a lifetime opportunity to be an American, in Qadaffi Libya, roaming around freely for 2 days admiring the ruins and the coastline, seeing how obviously progress has stopped in the past 40 years of Qadaffi's rule and noticing how much money must be spent on printing and erecting Qadaffi images of prosperity and African Unity everywhere and how little is spent on basic human needs.

Finally, nearly 72 hours after leaving London, I arrived back to Ghana to two very, very happy children, their relieved father and 2 puppies who were so excited they piddled when they saw me. Just glad it was the pups and not the kids who piddled!

Less than 2 days after arriving safely in Accra, I learned of the Afriqiyah airline crash on the approach to Tripoli. It stopped my heart, felt way too close for comfort and reminded me how very fragile life is and how blessed I was to be back safely with my kids.

Homeward Bound

After 2 weeks in London of poking, prodding and every test known to modern medicine, I'm finally heading back to Ghana later this week.  All in all, I've got a few underlying conditions that are manageable but have one very fatigued body that got a bad infection in Ghana and that never has fully recovered from 4 years of staggering physical and life changing events.  I've got to eat even healthier, get more consistent rest, reduce stress and generally hope that I don't get another infection anytime soon.

I miss the kids and puppies desperately but Cedric has done an amazing job of holding down the fort while I've been away which has made being here easier.  I think everyone will be happy to have mommy home but might be a little bummed when I open my bags and they're filled with wheat grass, raw food bars and herbal supplements :) 

Despite the conditions for being here, London has been a really amazing respite.  The medical system here has been holistic and world class on every level and I've been staying in a studio flat close to the clinic where I've been receiving care.  It's near Marleybone High Street, a very high-end part of town with an abundance of cool shops and little cafes a short walk away.  I'm feeling spoiled being able to walk to get fair-trade, organic cappuccinos, nap in the afternoons and be able to snack on rocket salads and stone oven pizzas anytime.  I've seen a couple of dance programs and a Pulitzer prize winning play, Ruined, that was set in the Congo. 

I have to get myself mentally prepared to return to Ghana.  I've been coddled with traffic lights that people actually obey, indicators painted on the street corners telling pedestrians which way to look for cars, level sidewalks with covered drains and a general sense of orderliness that is one piece of British influence that hasn't yet "stuck" in Ghana!  I can't wait to get back to the color and chaos of it all......

My favorite British motto - an old World War II propoganda poster that pretty much sums up life for me........

Finally in London

After much chaos, flight delays and a fascinating stopover in Libya, I am finally in London.  The handshake at the airport worked and I my name magically showed up on the flight manifest for Afriqiyah Airline's first post-ash flight to London. The people who showed up at the airport in Accra with boxing gloves did not make the flight.  Seems that faith and charm were the more effective tools this time. 

I'm not quite sure how to describe Tripoli.  There was something odd about the general energy in the airport - everyone was pretty much flying through to other places, I'm not sure many people actually leave the airport there and i'm pretty certain I was the only American in the whole place.  The landscape was really dilapidated and it all felt a bit eerie.  I spent $5 on 3 post cards of Qaddafi.  Very overpriced, but I wasn't exactly in the position to bargain.  I just couldn't resist the image of him in those sunglasses that look like they've been sitting on his face since he stepped into power in 1972. 

London has been a wonderful breath of spring air.  I've been really tired, so mostly just resting in the little studio flat where I'm staying, with a few outings to local markets.  Being here makes me realize how hard it is living in Accra.  All the little conveniences - healthy food available at reasonable prices just down the street, being able to walk places without melting or being hit by a crazy tro-tro driver, fast and reliable internet and the general orderliness of it all. 

Thanks to all of you who have been emailing and calling with your support.  I really, really appreciate it and it's making this trip a bit easier.  I'll keep you all updated on how things go.  I'm just glad to finally be here!

Faith, Charm and Boxing Gloves

I'm still in Ghana not feeling very well and trying desperately to get to London.  By now, all the flights to New York are booked for at least a week, so holding tight to my London ticket and trying to get rebooked is about all I can do.  I've spent the past 3 days making phone calls to several Afriqiyah Air #s here in Ghana as well as their main offices in Tripoli.  I have shown up at their local air representative office several times.  I just keep being told they don't have any information yet as to how they will handle rebookings.  Today, in tears and at my absolute edge, I went to the airport office (no one answered the phone all morning, so I decided to go prepared to sit there until they gave me an answer), explained my situation and told the guy I would not leave his office until I knew I was getting on the next flight out.  He was very good humored about it all and assured me he would get me on tonight's fully booked flight to Tripoli.  I asked for a confirmation.  His response was so very, very Ghanaian (and pretty Zen): "We did not have an appointment to meet today, yet here we both are.  You do not need a confirmation.  Come tonight, and I will get you on the plane."  I looked him straight in the eyes, asked him his name and then for his absolute assurance and shook his hand.  I guess that's as good a confirmation as one can get........

So, I will show up at the airport tonight, armed with faith, charm and boxing gloves - just in case. 

Ashes, Ashes We All Stay on the Ground

I've spent much of the week trying to get a flight to London to make the medical appts. I've got scheduled.  Unfortunately, I did not make it out of Ghana prior to the ash cloud erupting and floating oh so slowly over Europe.  My insurance company finally called last night and they've gotten me a flight out Monday night - on Afriqiyah Airlines via Tripoli, Libya.  Seriously.  This medical trip to London will no doubt be even more of an adventure than I had already thought.  I really hope I don't get stranded in Libya.  Not exactly a woman-friendly or American-friendly place to find yourself unexpectedly grounded. 

I found myself getting very stressed over the whole ordeal of getting a flight.  Then, I realized that it didn't matter whether I had a ticket or not - the ash cloud would determine whether and when I get to London.  I took several deep breaths and decided that this is just one, big cosmic lesson for us all - all our technology, pushing a button and getting what we want when we want it - is all just an illusion of some sort of control. In the end, it's Mother Nature and all of her amazing forces that controls what really goes on.  I'll be appealing to her for a lift in the cloud that allows me to get safely into and out of Tripoli and landed safely on the ground in London..........

London Calling

Since Easter, I've had a whole new cultural experience - the Ghanaian medical system. The kids & I were at the beach for the holiday and I came down with a serious fever, body aches and acute abdominal pain. After a couple of days of only getting worse, I finally called various doctors here and in the US and it started to look like another case of diverticulitis. We packed up and drove to Accra late Saturday night and I headed to a private hospital. They wanted cash when I checked in - I know from previous experience with diverticulitis that it's not easy or quick to deal with and knew I didn't have the cash for a several night stay and oodles of procedures. I finally paid them about $70 and assured them that I would straighten things out with my insurance company after I saw the doctor, got some antibiotics and rest.

The biggest difference I saw between the US and Ghanaian system was that they tend to have a more "wait and see" approach vs. doing probes, scans and medications for every little thing. They also did not start an immediate morphine drip - which seems to be standard protocol in the US (I think they've decided that drugged patients are easier to manage). The other big difference was the tape. Yes, the tape – the kind used for IVs. They have some sort of light brown old school tape that sticks horribly to the skin - and hair. Apparently, Ghanaians tend to not have a lot of body hair, so the tape isn't too problematic. However, for those of us with lighter skin - and more hair - it hurts like hell. I had the kids bring me some no-stick medical tape from home to be used for the remainder of my stay. The food was also not really helpful for diverticulitis - oily sauces, fried proteins and fried potatoes or rice. I ended up having my housekeeper bring me oatmeal and fruit.


The hospital did not have a CT scanner. So, I had to go to another clinic for a scan. Getting the scan was one thing - getting someone who could interpret it properly is entirely another. After more than a week of being better but still not feeling well, I'm heading to London for more tests. While it seems weird to jaunt off to London for medical tests, I am trying to think of it like living on the Island - I often had to go "off island" for medical tests (which meant Seattle or Tacoma). This time, I'm just going "off continent" (which means London)!